Today we dropped Dan off at the airport, and just five days ago Jack returned to the states. That leaves me on my own for another week here in Lusaka before Dave returns from his vacation. When Dave, the WBR Director of Operations, departed for his one-month trip back the US, he offered his home to three of us. Since the water at the first house was out soon after and the power was continuously failing, I jumped at the offer.
Now that the two young gentlemen have returned home, as well as the hundreds of young interns that spent their summers here, life is maturing quickly. No more beer pong (a game I just discovered, but is apparently taken the college world by storm and is now reaching international acclaim), or rap music or lively discussions about youthful endeavors. Its back to books and exercise for the old man.
Of course, I should also add that Dave’s house comes with a maid, gardener, pool and a very comfortable selection of furniture. There are also two dogs in the compound. They alone are reason to make the move. Instead of the two hell pups at the previous residence who did nothing but bark and bite, here we have an old ridgeback that is quiet and docile and a mutt that has convinced herself that she is eternally pregnant. They make a cute couple.
along with bamboo, spices, coconut, flowering shrubs that annoy mosquitoes, and other fruits, vines and flowers. It seems very natural at first, but I’ve seen many temporary structures (my clothing rack for example) made of bamboo and vines from the garden; and the food stuffs ripen variously throughout the year. I’ve obviously been impressed with the forethought and use of the gardens around many homes.
Another grand improvement on the living conditions has been the weather. Winter, as it is, only seems to last a week or two here in Zambia. It also seemed to coincide with my arrival here in July. Now in August the weather resembles the best part of the summer in the northwest US. Clear blue skies almost daily: temperature between 60 at dawn and mid 70’s during the day. Its absolutely gorgeous! When I mention how nice it is, everyone tells me its much better during the summer. So I have to keep reminding myself that it is, in fact, winter here. During the African summer the rains come, and apparently the leaves are fuller, the greens are greener. I see all the dirt roads and imagine the quagmire that must come with the rain. The locals seem immune to the difficulties associated with the mud. They all shrug it off and say travel is “tougher.”
The country is beautiful in many respects with palm trees and banana groves in many areas. The exotic plants always add luster to the westerner’s view. Looking past the poor roads and infrastructure, the country has enormous potential. Having lived in Florida, I begin to wonder if the peaceful beauty of the surroundings has anything to do with the lasseiz-fare attitude of the local Zambians.
This week has been hectic at the office. We are attempting to ship the first consignment of bicycles to Harare. Its only hectic because I do not speak Zambian (the national language is English) and I’ve run up against a wall of fiefdoms and NGO bureaucracy.
In short, many an NGO feels that every price is too high, since they are in fact a charity. Even after agreeing to a price, they relentlessly and without shame continue to press for discounts. At the same time, they claim that as a charity, they are never quite sure of their funding, and are likely to cancel their order. But without a doubt the most difficult part of the business at hand has been learning the language. Here are a few examples of what I’ve been able to figure out so far:
Just Now: When reminding a local of a particular task, they will invariably respond they are doing the job “just now.” At first it sounds like everything is on track. But “just now” really means “not only have I not started, but it’s likely I won’t get to that today.”
It’s Done: After learning what “just now” translates to in English, I began to ask if certain items of business are complete, and was happy to learn that “it’s done.” Translation: “This is a complicated task, one that will likely take a great deal of time and involve a large amount of bureaucracy. Since most of this effort is really out of my hands, or simply beyond me, I’ve given up for the day. In short, it may not be done, but I’m done working on it.”
Yes Boss: “I don’t speak English”
The list goes on and I still have many more to learn. In the middle of the learning I am working diligently to coordinate the bicycle orders from Harare and schedule the shipment next week. Before the container goes, Brian will drive to Zimbabwe with one of our lead mechanics to train the new assemblers. So interacting with two different national customs, immigration and tax agencies is what seems to be occupying most of my day. I really am working after all.
